A Humvee arrives here as a surplus chassis and leaves as a finished truck, and almost nothing in between is fixed. Which variant you start from, how far down the rebuild goes, what comes back on and what gets replaced with something better — every one of those is a decision, and every one of them is yours. What follows is those decisions, roughly in the order we work through them with you. None of it is a package and none of it is a trim level. Tell us what the truck is for and we will build to that.
Start With the Right Truck
Every build begins with the platform itself. The Humvee was produced in a long list of variants — two-door and four-door, soft tops and hard tops, cargo beds, slantbacks, armored and unarmored chassis — and they are not interchangeable. The variant sets the wheelbase, the body mounts, and how much of what you want bolts on rather than has to be made. If you already own the truck, we start with what you have. If you do not, we would rather help you find one that suits the build than fight one that does not.
Body Configuration
The body is what people picture when they picture the finished truck. A slantback hard top reads differently from a four-door pickup, and a two-door with a cargo bed different again. The configuration decides how many people ride, what you can carry behind them, and the whole outline of the truck from fifty feet away. Bodies are not fixed either — one of ours came in as a 2001 soft top and left as a slantback hard top.
How Far Down It Goes
The depth of a rebuild is a real choice, not an assumption. Some trucks want the body lifted off, the frame stripped, blasted and recoated, and every bushing, line and fastener replaced on the way back up. Others are sound enough that the work should be targeted instead — a driveline refresh, corrosion dealt with, the things that actually need doing. A body-off takes longer and costs more, and it is the only way to know what is under there. We will tell you which one the truck in front of us needs.
Engine and Driveline
The 6.5L diesel and the 4L80E behind it are where a rebuild gets its chance to be better than the original. Engines rebuilt or replaced outright, cooling capacity raised, injection sorted, transmissions gone through and geared for how the truck will actually be driven. Brakes, halfshafts, geared hubs, and steering are done in the same pass, because all of it is far cheaper with the body off than it is to come back for later.
Armor
Armor changes more than the doors. It changes the weight, what the driveline is carrying, the glass, the hinges, and the way the truck sits and stops. Some customers want a fully armored truck, some want particular pieces and nothing else, and some want the look without the weight. We cut and form armor here rather than ordering kits, so a build is not limited to what somebody else decided to sell. The armoring pages go through what we make and how it goes together.
The Roofline
Nothing changes the character of a Humvee faster than what happens at the roof. A plain hard top keeps it low and quiet. A hatch opens the roof up without much changing the outline. A cupola — MCTAGS, OGPK, or GPK — makes the truck unmistakable from a distance. This one is worth deciding early, because the roof structure, the headliner, and any armor all have to be built around it.
Paint and Finish
Paint is the last thing that happens and the first thing anyone sees. Trucks leave here in correct military CARC and three-color camouflage, in flat civilian colors, and in stealth black. The finish also decides how the truck ages, because CARC and a modern automotive paint do not wear the same way or want the same care. The small decisions live here too — whether markings and unit numbers go back on, how the wheels are finished, what gets coated and what stays bare.
Inside the Truck
